Monday, November 13, 2017

My Agra- Delhi trip

It was our dream trip to one of the biggest cities in India, New Delhi in September 2017. We booked our flight tickets 3 months ago via makemytrip.com which we got for 10000 rupees per person. Ten days prior to our trip, after so many investigations and review analysis through TripAdvisor and similar sites, we booked a hotel at Paharganj which was some 7 minutes walking distance from the New Delhi railway station. Hotel Hari Piorko, was one of the good hotels at a reasonable rate when I searched in MakeMyTrip. Then, we also booked round-trip tickets for Gatimaan express and one day pass for the Delhi HOHO bus.


Trivandrum-New Delhi


We started our journey to New Delhi on Sep 18 by Indigo airlines on Sep 18th afternoon. We arrived at the Indira Gandhi international airport domestic terminal at 4.20pm. From there, we booked a prepaid taxi to our hotel. The taxi cost 400 rupees.



Travelling through the busy streets of New Delhi, we saw many street vendors selling coconut pieces, Poori etc. in the traffic. The taxi driver dropped us at the main bazaar road which was a very crowded street with people, both locals and tourists, rickshaws, street vendors and even animals. We walked to the hotel 5 minutes ahead and get our room keys after submitting our ID cards and other details.

After dropping our baggage at our room, we went outside and walked through the road just in front of the hotel. There were so many vendors- food, handicrafts, jewelry, clothes and so on both sides of that narrow street through which rickshaws, pedestrians, and animals like cows and dogs compete with each other to find their space. We entered a restaurant on the street to have our dinner. We ordered a Biriyani and Chapathi with Paneer curry. It was one of the most delicious meals that we ate from New Delhi.


Sep 19, Agra

According to our trip plans, we went to Agra on the very first day. I have heard from some friends, taxi and rickshaws will charge us with more amount if they saw tourists. Since we are not good at Hindi, bargaining in the streets of Delhi was impossible. Also, I have a really worse picture of the Delhi's from some people. So we asked the hotel reception to book a taxi for us to the Nizamuddin Railway station. They charged us 500 rupees and we thought that the station will be quite far from the Hotel. So we started at 6 am as our train was at 7.10 am. The taxi that we got was really bad conditioned(for what we paid) and in 15 minutes we reached the Nizamuddin station. By that day evening, we could understand that we were charged much higher than the actual fare. Actually, it was the most expensive journey throughout our Delhi trip.

We waited at the Nizamuddin station for about an hour to get on the train. From the canteen near the station, we bought Idli and sambar(as our kid like it only) which I don't like to call Idli, it tasted really bad.
At Nizamuddin station
Gatimaan express started from the Nizamuddin station at 7.10 am which took us to the Agra Cantt station in 2 hours and 40 minutes. The journey by Gatimaan express was very comfortable.
1. Punctual 2. Good facilities 3. Best staff and services 4. Delicious meals
Gatimaan Express
We hired an autorickshaw from the station, 600 rupees per day. Our taxi driver was very kind and he explained about all the places throughout the journey. He didn't forget to give advice about the problems we have to face in Taj Mahal and other places he took us to.

Forenoon at Taj Mahal

We first went to Taj Mahal. We already had our entry tickets taken online. We submitted the tickets at the south entrance of Taj Mahal. Foods, beverages, and even papers or books are not allowed inside the Taj grounds. We were advised by our driver not to take drinks and food inside, but we had a kid's cartoon book with us, which was thrown away at the entrance.



Those irritating photographers: From the south entrance, we walked towards the gate that leads to the great Taj Mahal grounds. It was somewhat crowded, actually not by the visitors, but the photographers who were covering us from all directions, like the bees surrounding flowers. It was really very irritating, that we couldn't enjoy the sight around us. I told them that I have a camera, I will take photos as per our needs, but they were making fun of me. Like 'you aren't professionals, you don't know the perfect angles for taking photos here' and so on. Anyway, I just ignored them. Beyond the gate, we stood in front of the Taj for taking a photo and one of those photographers grabbed our camera telling that he will take our picture with our camera. I thought for a while and answered 'Okay'. But anyway he started taking photos with his camera and took us to some other corners of the Taj ground. Even though I kept asking him to stop it and we don't need more than one photograph, he took some 40 photos. I asked him why you are carrying our camera with you, don't you promised that you will take photos with that. Then he took some 2-3 photos in that. He was not at all stopping his clicks regardless of my requests. At last, I was forced to get angry with him. I told him that I need only the print of that very first photo which you took in front of the Tajmahal. He showed the photos and insisted to take everything, one print 50 rupees and for the softcopy 40 rupees per photograph. As I was totally irritated in that hot sun, along with my hubby trying to hold my baby who was running into the fountain. I had no time to even see those pictures. I told him my last word that I don't need any other picture. Thus we lost the sights and enjoyments up to that point of Taj Mahal grounds.

Walk through the Taj grounds

We walked forward, taking some photos along with controlling our kid from running into that fountain. It was very hot(about 37-degree Celsius). Before entering the Taj Mahal, we have to either remove our shoes or cover it. Some people were walking barefooted, while most of them bought some white cotton covers from a shoe keeping area in front of Taj Mahal. We also bought two pairs of it, they asked to give any amount of money as we wish. We paid 10 rupees there and walked forward.

The beauty of Taj Mahal and its surroundings couldn't be enjoyed fully in 2 or 3 hours. I think you need a complete day in there. The Yamuna river, cows grazing at the other bank of it, the Agra Fort which is seen at some distance, everything should have to be enjoyed while walking around Taj. Cameras are not allowed inside the Mahal, which is the Tomb of Mumtaz. It is somewhat dark inside, where visitors are allowed to walk in a queue.

The worst part of the entire trip is that, travelling with the kids in this hottest sun without even a bottle of water. We could understand that there is a chance for people to throw away the used plastic bottles or spill water on the white marbles which is dangerous. But we saw so many kids crying for water while entering the Mahal. A group of people who were in front of us returned without entering the Mahal, as their kid was crying for water and food. Even we were feeling thirsty, after walking such a long distance through the grounds of Taj Mahal, some 30 minutes wasted with that photographer. We entered inside the Taj Mahal which has a really calm atmosphere inside it.
Because our kid also started asking for water, we moved to the entrance gate hurriedly. And the next problem was waiting outside.
As we were walking towards our auto to grab the water bottle, some boys called us telling that they have our photographs. They showed it, and I gave 100 rupees. They were telling us that they have no balance, and gave some crafts instead of the balance. I told him that I didn't like that. We were actually thinking of getting some more photos from the shop as softcopy. We felt pity for that photographer as he took so many pictures and I got angry at him(as it was my mood then). And my baby was crying for water. So we preferred giving water to our kid than talking with those boys or getting the printed photograph. I gave him 45 rupees, which was the only change I had with me. They didn't accept that as well. So I gave the print back to them and told that I don't want it. We walked forward with our kid. Then one of the boys followed us to give the print as well as the balance amount. Even though we had plans to buy some crafts from there, this incident and our kid's situation made us forget about that.
What I think about the photography at Taj Mahal and other tourists spots is, those who wish to have some photos taken by those professionals should approach them, if there is a unique ticketing system for that also. Each photographer can take their turn than running behind every tourists which is very very irritating.
Our taxi driver took us to one of the good hotels in Agra, where we had our lunch. We ordered nan and palak paneer which was yummy.

Afternoon at Agra Fort

After lunch, we went to Agra Fort. Before going to the fort, the driver explained about the fort and gave instructions about what to see and gave cautions about the photographers. We took our tickets from the ticketing office and get inside. It was not so crowded. There were not many photographers surrounding us like that in the Taj Mahal.

Agra Fort
 There were so many options to take a rest in the shade of trees and buildings. We enjoyed our walk through the Fort. Really wished if this calmness was at Taj Mahal, where we couldn't enjoy well. There were no restrictions for water here. But the food was not allowed, I carried some biscuits for my kid. The kind securities of Agra fort allowed me to take it with me.
We talked with a group of people from Holand who were on a trip of 15 days. We took enough rest there, our kid enjoyed running in between the pillars, and watching the squirrels who were fed by the people there.

Then our driver took us to some famous handicraft shops of Agra, from where we bought a small replica of Taj Mahal made out of white marble(450 rupees), some wallets etc. Then we went to a sweet shop for buying the famous Agra Petah.



After shopping, we reached back at the station an hour prior to our train departure. We waited there on the platform. The sight on the platform was really pathetic when compared to that of the railway stations of Kerala.

Gatimaan express departed at 17.50 from Agra Cantt station which took us to Nizamuddin station in 100 minutes. We reached there at sharp 19.30. From there, we hired an autorickshaw to our Hotel, paid 60 rupees(at night, instead of 500 that we paid in the morning).
At this time, we could understand the power of bargaining in Delhi. Without bargaining, they will charge the tourists a lot. The people of Delhi and surrounding areas are living with exploiting the tourists. If we are able to talk in their language, we can win them. We decided not to depend on one the hotel reception for another taxi.

Septemeber 20- Delhi sightseeing

For Delhi sightseeing, we booked the HOHO bus which starts at 8.30 am from HOHO Center at Baba Kharak SinMargrg. We walked through the streets of Paharganj and searched for a restaurant to have our breakfast. No shops were open at 7.30am. At last, we had some Poori and curry from a small street stall. It doesn't look hygienic, but we had no other options at that time.


Then we hired a rickshaw to Connaught Place police station. But what he dropped us at some other part of Connaught place, even though I told him we want to reach in front of the police station. We wandered there, without knowing the place. Even google map confused us. At last, I seek the help of a college student, who told me that we have to walk 10 minutes to reach our destination, better hire an autorickshaw. Thus we hired an auto to the HOHO bus point. I am not yet sure why the rickshaw dropped us at that place even though we paid him what he asked.



HOHO bus was really convenient than expected for Delhi sightseeing.The bus runs slowly through the roads of Delhi while the guide explained about the buildings seen on both sides of the way. Among the many stops of HOHO bus at the tourist spots, we can choose our destination as per our wish. The chain of HOHO bus will pick up from the same point., each reaching in every 40minutes. We went to Gurudwara Birla Mandir, India Gate, Qutab Minar, Humayun's Tomb and Red fort on that day. Even though we had a plan of dropping at Raj Ghat, we waited for 2 and a half hours at the Red fort due to the heavy traffic block created by the rally related to Ramleela festival. So the last HOHO bus dropped us back the HOHO bus center.
The one and only demerit I am feeling about HOHO bus is related to this traffic issue. Ramleela is a festival in North Inia every year. And of course, this kind of rallies and programs will be conducted in the Red Fort area every year on the same day, which is known to all the local people. Being a tourist service, HOHO bus might have given the travelers a warning about this at least before getting on the bus in the morning or on the way. For those toursits in Delhi, it will be a great help so that we can plan based on that.

At the tourist spots

Gurudwara Birla Mandir
Gurudwara Birla Mandir is a really calm and quiet worship area of the Sikh religion.It is a beautiful and nice place to stay and meditate in the midst of the busy life outside. India gate had some photographers, among which one of them told that he will take photos in our camera which we agreed. He took some nice pictures with our camera, for which we paid him.
India Gate
Qutab Minar
We had lunch at a Kerala Hotel at Dilli Hatt(INA Market). Dilli Hatt has almost all kinds of shops and restaurants from every Indian state.

Humayun's Tomb
We spend 2-time slots of HOHO bus at Qutab Minar(40+40 minutes) and then went to Humayun's tomb. Both places offered nice shades of greenery to take a rest after walking in the hot sun.

Red Fort, New Delhi
The red fort was crowded with people as there was some programs related with Dussehra was being conducted on that day. It made HOHO bus stuck in the traffic jam and we waited in front of the fort for a long time. We missed one of the places in our list because of that traffic jam.


Sep 21: Lotus temple, Jantar Mantar


The plan for our last day in Delhi was the lotus temple and Jantar Mantar along with some shopping. We went by metro rail to Kalkhaji mandir station, the train was crowded all day long.



Lotus temple allowed us taking food and water(not allowable) as per my request for our kid. It was very clean and beautiful place with lawns and flowering plants.



 The lotus temple standing in between a pool is a meditation hall in the shape of lotus flower, with natural light entering inside through the petals of the flower. As full silence should be kept inside and our kid didn't allow it for a long time, we got only some 5 minutes inside the hall, even though we wished to spend more. We went outside and spent some time under a tree. On the way back to the metro station, we entered the Kalkaji Mandir, where some festival was going on. It was crowded on both sides of the narrow path leading toward the temple. The path had vendors selling offerings item for the temple. The temple and the customs there was entirely different from ours.

We caught our train to Rajiv Chauk metro station, from where we walked towards the Jantar Mantar. On the way, we entered the Charka museum.


After visiting Jantar Mantar we hired an auto rickshaw to our hotel and took our baggage which was left at the reception. Then did some shopping from the streets of Paharganj. Even though we planned to reach the airport by metro, an auto driver promised us to take us to the Airport domestic terminal (250 rupees). We agreed and he dropped us at the airport. We had our lunch from a stall at the airport. At 4 pm we said goodbye to the capital city of India.

Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Tips for South Indians travelling to Delhi and Agra(Sightseeing)

Recently, the number of South Indian tourists in New Delhi is increasing. When we planned a trip to Delhi and  Agra, we talked with some friends who have been living there and those who have gone for a trip in the recent years. These are some highlights of their advice:
1. Don't hire a taxi by yourselves. Taxi drivers will charge you a lot. Ask the hotel reception to get a taxi for you.
2. Always be cautious about the people surrounding you. They will try to bully you or rob you.
3. Don't travel to Delhi by train or bus as it is always packed up and difficult to travel with the locals.
4. Better travel between Delhi and Agra by a private taxi.

And, with my experience, I could say that these are completely wrong.

This is what I want to tell you.

What I want to tell you South Indian friends who are planning a trip to Delhi is don't be upset about what is waiting for you there. Delhi is in India, even though lots of differences are there between our place and capital city. please note that these are for those friends who want to make a trip to Delhi Agra by spending only the reasonable charges to your travel and stay. Those who are not willing to bargain or talk with the people around you, please don't read the following points.

Stay and travel planning 
 If you are for the first time in Delhi, make a good plan about what to do and where to go. Paharganj is the area near New Delhi railway station where the hotels are located in large numbers. The main bazaar road in front of the New Delhi railway station is one of the very busiest streets of Delhi, where hotels are situated on both sides of the road. You can see street vendors and shops on both sides. You can get anything you want from here. Low priced hotels to five-star restaurants are located here. You can find a hotel as per your need in this area.

1. Better get the hotels booked through some online sites(like makemytrip) as you can find a better price and check the reviews.
2. Must check the reviews(tripadvisor) on the hotels you have selected before going ahead for booking it.
3. If possible, it will be convenient if you take the entry tickets for monuments online. If you have mobile internet you can do it on the same day you are planning to go. But I advise to do it beforehand.


About transportation
1. If you are a group of people more than 4, I think taxi is a best and reasonable option to travel inside Delhi.
2. Hiring an autorickshaw/ rickshaw/ taxi in Delhi is reasonable or costlier depending on you. If you don't mind talking with the driver and fixing the price before entering the taxi, it is the best option to get paid with the most reasonable fare. Than asking the hotel reception to book a taxi for you(which will be costly), you can ask the reception how much it will cost between the points you are going to travel. You can ask the driver how much it will cost to go to your destination and compare it with that told by the hotel person. If you think it is fine, then only get inside and go.
3. Dot try to call a taxi from in front of your hotel, as the drivers could understand that you are a tourist and charge more.
4. There is a chance that the driver will tell you an amount far more than the original price. Be courageous to tell the last price(bargaining) to him. Sometimes, he will never ever agree with it. Or he will slip to your end. If he says a big NO, better call and talk with some other taxi(taxi is available in plenty on the roads of Delhi). For me, I don't like to travel with the same driver if we have talked for the fare a lot.
3. A lot of bus tour programs are there in Delhi which assures that they will cover the most important sites there. I am not sure about it. Even if they cove the places in their listing I wonder if they keep the timings or let you enjoy the places as you want to. I won't recommend it if you are conscious about the time and want the freedom to enjoy the sites. If you need not bother about where to go next, how to go etc. better go for such a bus tour.

4. HOHO bus is the sightseeing bus of Delhi which is a very convenient way for travelling there. It covers all the important tourist spots of Delhi. This is a chain of buses which reaches the destination in every 40 minutes. You can pay 530 rupees(it may be sometimes less than this depending on the season) for a day. You can spend as much time as you want on every site if your list of sites is less.
They will give you the time schedule and the list of sites the bus is travelling to. They will explain about the main buildings and sights seen on both sides of the roads(in Hindi). An English commentary is also played in between. The bus makes stop at every destination. You can get off at the places you want to visit, go around and watch everything as per your interest. After sightseeing, what you have to do is reach the bus stop according to the scheduled timing given to you(check the paper they give you when boarding the bus). They will take you the next place and at last drop you in front of the HOHO bus information centre.
5. Delhi metro is a nice option to travel around New Delhi tourist sites. The minimum charge is 10 rupees and you can travel around without bothering about the traffic issues. The main issue about metro is that it will be mostly crowded. If you have children's accompanying you, or if you are a group of more than 5 people, sometimes it will be difficult to manage travelling by Delhi metro.
To Agra
4. Travelling between Delhi and Agra in taxi or bus is the worst among the decisions made by you. It takes roughly 4 hours(may be more depending on the traffic).
5. Gatimaan express is the best option to travel between Delhi and Agra. It takes you from Delhi Nizamudhin station to Agra Cantt station in 100 minutes. Gatimaan is the fastest train in India with no transit stops. They will provide better service, meals(optional) and it is very punctual. It starts from Nizamuddin station at 7.10am and reached Agra Cantt at 9.40am.
6. Within Agra, there is no need of booking a taxi priorly. There are government verified taxi/ autorickshaw services available from the station. It costs 1200 rupees for a taxi car and 600 rupees for an autorickshaw for a whole day. It will depend on your driver, there is a chance that they may ask you for a tip. If you want to tip him or not is up to you, else pay as per the rule.

Food and shopping
Food is the prime thing that we have to consider while travelling. If you are a person having issues with stomach, you should take enough care. Better go for some good restaurants, even if you have to pay more. Health is everything, and without that, you can't make your trip fruitful.

1. You can try cuisines from the local vendors on the street. Pani poori and other items are found very common on the streets of Delhi. You can taste it from there or from some local stalls which are very cheaper. I am not sure how much hygienic it is. You can look around and evaluate the conditions from the surroundings itself.
2. Eating at the hotel you are staying will be convenient, check the menu and decide it as per your budget and interest.
3. Don't be lazy to walk around, search for shops/ restaurants nearby. You can find a better option outside while watching the streets and doing some street shopping.
4. If buying fruit items, please look around for some fruit stalls. Try not to rely on the fruit vendors on the streets, as it will not be tasty.
5. Shopping on the streets in Delhi is all about bargaining. You a bargain with the vendors, if you know Hindi it will be more convenient for you and them. Stay back and watch the way local people bargains. You can't do like them, but make a try. Isn't everything a new experience??

At the tourist spots

1. Photography: Most places in Delhi allows photography. You can take your camera(don't forget to charge your battery daily).
2. At Taj Mahal, Agra fort, India gate etc., you will come across so many professional photographers coming behind you asking for taking your photos. It is more worse at Taj Mahal. For me, it was irritating. They will not allow us to go ahead without them. If you are not professional photographers, and you want to have some good pictures of you and your family in front of Taj Mahal, you can ask one of them to take some photos for you. Of course, they will not stop with one or two. They will make you stand and sit in various position and take some 50 photos and ask you to select form it. They will give either the print out of those pictures or the soft copy. You can bargain with them for a better price.
3. Ask them to take photos on your camera(if you have a good camera) and tell them that you will pay some amount for that at he spot. This is a best option sot hat you will get a lot of photos in your camera, at a better price.
4. At Taj Mahal, they wont allow food, drinks and even papers or books inside your bags. They will open it and check the bag, will take off this kinfd of items if any. Even those travelling with kids are not allowed to take even water in Taj Mahal. At Agra fort and lotus temple also, food and water are not allowed. For those travelling with kids can request the security officers for carrying food or water. They will ask you not to open it or throw the wastes while you are inside the monument grounds. Please obey them, its part of cleanliness of our historical monuments nad tourist spots where lots of people are coming everyday.
5. Please don't behave rudely to other tourists around you. There will be Indians from other states and foreigners around you. You are going to represent your state or sometimes your nation. If you behave oddly, they might be bearing in mind that all Indians or all S.Indians are like this. So try to be kind and generous to all around you even if you are upset with the tiredness of the trip and the surroundings.

Happy journey. And safe trip...